Bear Brook State Park, Allenstown NH

lake in a state park, deep blue water, partly cloudy sky, forested shore
Catamount Pond, Bear Brook SP (Ellen Kolb photo)

I had casual business in New Hampshire’s capital city this weekend, and found myself with a couple of unscheduled hours afterward. I decided to take US 3 south to NH Route 28 north in order to check out New Hampshire’s largest developed state park, Bear Brook in Allenstown. Yes, another spur-of-the-moment hike. They often work out well.

Bear Brook is a 10,000-acre park with many trails, which I’ll have to save for another day. I had time for only a brief visit. I came in to the park via Deerfield Road off of NH Rt. 28. I pulled over at the park kiosk, paid a small entry fee, and picked up a trail map. Catamount Hill was nearby, and so was Catamount Pond with a little beach. Those were destinations enough for today.

The hill is rated “difficult” on the park trail map (which is available as a PDF on the NH state park web site), but that’s a stretch. Uphill, yes, but no scrambling on the ledge. I had sneakers on, and no trekking pole, and the knee I hammered a couple of weeks ago on another hike was not stressed. The only wildlife I saw was of the six-legged variety.

One-Mile Trail, Bear Brook SP (Ellen Kolb photo)
One-Mile Trail, Bear Brook SP (Ellen Kolb photo)

This was a woods walk. I met three mountain bikers walking their bikes and their dogs uphill as I was heading down, and they were working a lot harder than I was. “Guess I’d better stay right,” I called. “No, we’re going down on another trail,” said one of the bikers reassuringly. They didn’t waste any time. We ran into each other again at the base of the hill, all smiles after what must have been a rip-roaring ride for them.

Catamount Pond and its facilities are across the road from the entrance kiosk. Deserted today, the beach looks like it could accommodate a crowd on a hot day. This looks like a great area for a family outing, with a playground and picnic pavilion nearby. On the lawn is a monument to the Civilian Conservation Corps workers who helped to develop this park.

There is much more to Bear Brook than I could see today. I didn’t even get to the snowmobile museum, campground, or archery range. The park land is open year-round, but some facilities may not be available through fall and winter. Check the park’s website.

CCC monument, Bear Brook SP (Ellen Kolb photo)
CCC monument, Bear Brook SP (Ellen Kolb photo)

Mr. Stiles’s lesson: Share what you love about New Hampshire

purple lilac blossom

Share what you love about New Hampshire. You never know who might be listening.

In August 2013, I read in the newspaper about the passing of a New Hampshire gentleman named Walter Stiles. May God rest his soul. The published tributes indicate that he was a generous man in every respect, devoted to his family, active in his community.  I met him only once and had a single unforgettable conversation with him on the subject of lilacs. In the short time we chatted, he managed to convey his great and contagious affection for this state and its natural beauty.

I never thanked him. I’ll try to make up for that here.

We met at a political gathering, not a social one, and there was a lot of edgy debate among attendees that day. By some chance, I was seated next to Mr. Stiles, who I think was a state representative at the time. His kindness and dignity were a kind of antidote to the tension in the room. I asked him what he did when he wasn’t serving in his political office. I realize now that he could have said any number of things, for as his obituary made clear, he was a man of many parts. What he chose to tell me was about his interest in horticulture, particularly lilacs.

I had never paid much attention to lilacs before that time, to tell you the truth. They were just sort of there. Listening to Walter Stiles, I began to realize what I’d been missing. He told me about the Governor’s Lilac Commission, which was a fairly new group at that time (and has since been disbanded, alas). He told me that the lilac was the state flower, and that he hoped to see more people plant them around their homes and schools and towns. He talked about the flower’s wonderful fragrance, which I had somehow never stopped to notice.  He told me about the people working with local garden clubs to encourage cultivation.

When the day’s proceedings were over, he bid me a cordial farewell and went on his way. He must have been grinning to himself, knowing better than I did that he had dropped an idea in front of me and that I was sure to pick it up eventually.

That was many years ago. Since then, lilacs planted by my husband have grown to line one side of our yard. I wait impatiently every spring for those gorgeous blossoms. I fill vases with them and bring them into the house so the fragrance can fill the rooms. I appreciate all their colors, from white to deepest purple. I’m grateful to everyone who has gone to the trouble of planting lilac bushes, which take a few years to establish.

It’s no accident that I do more hiking as I get older. I have more to appreciate and enjoy. I’ve benefited from many people who have taken the time to share with me their love of this state’s beauty, giving me all the more reason to savor my time on trails.

If you’re a fan of being outdoors, I hope you’ll do what Mr. Stiles did: share your enthusiasm. I only met him once, and I never had the chance to thank him for expanding my horizons just a bit. I’m guessing he’d consider those lilacs in my yard thanks enough.

Manchester Cedar Swamp Preserve: rhododendron heaven

I’m much obliged to reader Steve for bringing Manchester Cedar Swamp Preserve to my attention. This Nature Conservancy property straddles the line between Hooksett and Manchester, New Hampshire, not far from Hackett Hill Road. Among its features is the giant rhododendron, which happens to be a July bloomer.

Parking is in a well-signed spot on Countryside Boulevard, about a half-mile from Hackett Hill Road. Bring your bug repellent and enjoy the walk, but please, no dogs. The trail system is 1.8 miles long.

 

Five heat-wave hikes in southern New Hampshire

The thermometer is topping 90 degrees, and it’s not even July yet. What’s a walker to do? Air conditioning is a wonderful thing, but the trails beckon. I recommend shady ones. Here are a few favorites of mine, with photos I’ve taken along the way.

Odiorne Point State Park, on the Seacoast in Rye (Rt. 1-A). If there’s an onshore breeze, this is heaven on a hot day. Take a walk along the rocky shore, or take one of the paths through the woods. The sharp contrast between adjacent environments is surprising. Bonus: the wild roses are in bloom this time of year. There’s a modest admission fee.

wild roses growing along a coastline
Wild roses at Odiorne Point. All photos by Ellen Kolb.

Mine Falls Park in Nashua is accessible from exits 5E, 5W, and 6 on the Everett Turnpike. It’s a favorite of mine in all seasons. If you only have time for a quick lunchtime walk this summer, try the trail that runs along the mill pond, between Stellos Stadium and Nashua South high school. Bonus: if you have a kayak, you can launch it onto the pond via the ramp near Conway Ice Arena. Keep an eye out for muskrats, herons, eagles, and turtles. Free.

 bridge with wooden rails, along a smooth unpaved path
Miles of trails in Mine Falls Park include single track as well as wide paths like this one.

Massabesic Audubon Center is in Auburn off of the Londonderry Turnpike/NH Route 28Bypass, just a few minutes from Manchester. 130 acres, several miles of wooded trails, shoreline on Lake Massabesic. Free admission, but donations are accepted and encouraged.

Lake Massabesic from Battery Point
Lake Massabesic from Battery Point

Madame Sherri Forest, in quiet Chesterfield. Sure, you could hike uphill from here to explore Mt. Wantastiquet. On a hot day, though, a low shady path is better. Parking for this Forest Society property is available on Gulf Road; be careful not to park on nearby private property. Check out the ruins of “Madame Sherri’s castle,” visit Indian Pond, and then stroll down Gulf Road at your leisure. Free.

Madame Sherri's castle
Madame Sherri’s castle

Pawtuckaway State Park, Nottingham (take exit 5 from NH 101 and follow the signs). This is another year-round treat. Hike the flat shady trails, or pick a hill (one has a fire tower), or enjoy the beach on Pawtuckaway Lake. Bonus: camping and boat rentals. A small admission fee is charged, and on busy weekends and holidays, an advance reservation for parking is essential. See the state park website for more information. This is one of my favorite state parks just because of its sheer variety of recreational opportunities

Cooling off on Pawtuckaway Lake
Cooling off on Pawtuckaway Lake

Do you have any favorite summer spots for a dayhike? Drop a comment below!

New Boston Rail Trail

Update: since this 2013 post, the New Boston Rail Trail has been extended north to the Goffstown line, with a small parking area at the northern terminus on Riverside Drive (off Parker Road). The trail enjoys strong support from town officials and enthusiastic volunteers. It’s well-maintained, closed to motorized traffic, and easily accessible from New Hampshire’s largest cities. Web links below are up to date as of February 2026.

The New Boston rail trail follows the Piscataquog River and NH Route 13 through town. The river’s gentle sounds and a canopy of trees over the trail muffle sounds from the highway.

This is actually a remnant of the same rail line that gave rise to the Goffstown and Piscataquog (Manchester, NH) trails. This leafy and cool trail is perfect on a summer day, as long as you carry bug repellent. This is a dirt trail, which means it’s occasionally muddy, and it’s open to horses, which means watch your step.

My favorite feature of the trail is the footbridge over the Middle Branch of the Piscataquog River. It’s a simple but lovely piece of work.

Parking is available at several locations off NH Route 13 north of New Boston’s town center: the 4-H Fairgrounds (Hilldale Lane), Lang Station (Gregg Mill Road), and Parker Road.  See the rail trail website for further information.

 

Northern New Hampshire road trip: Stark to Third Connecticut Lake

Great North Woods, New Hampshire (NHDOT map)
Great North Woods, New Hampshire (NHDOT map)

With no formal vacation in sight, I can improvise. Just give me 24 hours and a car. Good hiking territory is essential, but so is a pleasant drive. Earlier this week, that meant heading up I-93 to Coos County.

Third Connecticut Lake area

Lone hiker, five miles from Canada
Lone hiker, five miles from Canada
Site 28 at Deer Mountain State Park
Site 28 at Deer Mountain State Park

This trip was inspired by a planned work project on the Cohos Trail, cutting a spur to the summit of Deer Mountain in the town of Pittsburg near the Canadian border. Unfavorable weather forced postponement of the trail work, leaving me free to wander familiar trails alone for a few hours. Very quiet overcast morning: no logging in the area this week, only two campsites occupied at Deer Mountain State Park, only one other hiker in sight. No hills on this trip, given my limited time in the area. US route 3 was nearly deserted. Snowmobile trail #5, on which the Cohos Trail piggybacks in this area, had a few mud puddles, but nothing dramatic. I enjoyed miles of walking the highway and the trail.

When I hiked through this area on a backpacking trip in ’09, the segment of trail now shared with the snowmobile trail was not yet on line. I was on pavement in 90 degree weather from Happy Corner to the Canadian border. I loved that trip, but I can tell you that cool drizzle is fine, too.

Stark

OK, I’m cheating here: I didn’t hike in Stark. I broke up the long drive to Pittsburg by stopping for a night at the Stark Village Inn, owned and operated by a member of the Cohos Trail Association board. The inn was homey and affordable. Nancy, the owner, is the soul of hospitality. She knows the trails in the area, and she’s been known to provide limited shuttle service.

View from Stark Village Inn
View from Stark Village Inn

If I did decide to hike in Stark, I’d probably head up the Nash Stream Road from NH Route 110. Or maybe I’d head south of 110 toward the Kilkenny Ridge trail. Maybe I’d just walk along 110 and enjoy the sound and sight of the Upper Ammonoosuc River.

Colebrook and Columbia

I like Colebrook. It’s bustling, but it’s a tiny town nonetheless. Here, US 3 meets NH Route 26, which leads to Dixville Notch. Another day, I would have gone to the Notch for a short but lung-busting climb to Table Rock. No time on this trip, though. “Later,” I promised silently as I drove past NH 26, not weakening even when I drove past Le Rendez-Vous. That’s a bakery with amazing stuff, including irresistible chocolate croissants. (Update: Alas, since the publication of this post, Le Rendez-Vous has closed down.)

On NH 145 northeast of the center of town – a fun road, by the way – is Beaver Brook wayside area. It’s a feast for the eyes. There are short trails near the falls, especially nice in the summer when the spray from the falls is soothing on hot days. Pack a picnic.

waterfall next to picnic area
Beaver Brook wayside area, Colebrook NH

I stopped in Columbia on my way home, just south of Colebrook, at the Shrine of Our Lady of Grace. It didn’t take long to walk the grounds. There are days when the shrine is thronged with pilgrims & tourists. I was there a few years ago during the annual Blessing of the Motorcycles, with hundreds of cheerful bilingual bikers. This week, I was alone. Different feeling altogether. For me, it was a place of prayer.

(Update: the Shrine closed in 2014. Part of the property has become the Tillotson Center, a community heritage, visual, and performing arts center.)

Shrine of Our Lady of Grace
Shrine of Our Lady of Grace

The ride back to southern New Hampshire on US 3 went past some of my favorite hiking spots, including Weeks State Park. The pesky clock was ticking, though, and I kept driving. Once I was halfway home, the sun came out and the temperature went up 15 degrees. If I couldn’t have that weather for hiking, it was at least nice to have it for driving. No complaints, though. Those were twenty-four good hours.