Sunny day, with ladyslippers: Rockingham Recreational Trail

This spring’s weather in southern New Hampshire has been somewhat uneven, which means “normal,” which means rainy days and 80-degree days and near-freezing nights. (Not all at once.) Most weekends this season have had inclement weather of one sort or another.

When the forecast last weekend mentioned a sunny Sunday, I knew what I’d be doing after church. Off with the dress shoes, on with the hiking gear. I headed just over the county line for eight good miles on the Rockingham Recreational Trail.

One thing I like about this trail linking Manchester and the Seacoast region is the choice of trailhead parking areas. This time I parked in East Candia, where the trail crosses Depot Road. (Here’s a tip: anytime you see a Depot Road in a New Hampshire town, keep your eyes open for a rail trail.) There’s a parking area there that’s unpaved but well-maintained, with room for a dozen cars or so.

Another thing I like is the trail’s shade. Mixed hardwoods have leafed out, and along with hemlocks and pines they create a kind of canopy along the trail.

I headed east for a few miles and stopped for a snack at a trailside picnic table by Onway Lake. Not too far away was the day’s prime photo op: ladyslippers in profusion! These were a deeper pink shade than the ones I’ve seen closer to home. Always beautiful, whatever the color. Within a couple of weeks they’ll disappear, to return next spring or perhaps the spring after that. I happened to catch them at the perfect time. No picking them or digging them up! They’re highly site-dependent and don’t take kindly to changes of venue.

a clump of pink ladyslipper flowers growing along a hiking trail
Pink ladyslippers, making their brief appearance. Ellen Kolb photo.

I retraced my steps to my car, dropped off my fleece pullover, and then headed west. That section of trail had a different look from the section I’d been on earlier: wider, a bit smoother, more residential buildings nearby. I like the modest rock cut in that western section, blasted into shape when the old rail line was laid. Such cuts testify to the effort it took to lay rails in the aptly-named Granite State.

Everyone I encountered on the trail was in good spirits, and why not? It was a rare sunny weekend day, and a holiday weekend to boot. I greeted a few runners and walkers, who were far outnumbered by cheerful courteous cyclists. I like a good hearty “passing left!” when I’m approached from behind by someone on wheels.


A few notes on the Rockingham Recreational Trail section I visited, centered in East Candia: as I mentioned, the parking area on Depot Road is unpaved but in good shape. No toilet facilities are available. Carry snacks and water; the closest place along the trail with coffee and fast food is further east in a commercial area of Raymond. The trail is unpaved, and it’s full of the stones and roots typical of this area. If your mobility is impaired to any degree, you might enjoy the relatively smooth and wide two-mile section of trail extending west from Depot Road. No ATVs or class III e-bikes are allowed.

When you’re ready to explore this or any other trail in New Hampshire, remember to defend yourself against ticks and mosquitoes. I use permethrin on my hiking clothes and DEET on exposed skin. Lyme disease and its nasty cousins are illnesses I want to avoid.

There are two Rockingham Rec Trails in New Hampshire, which can be confusing. It’s a heritage from the route names in railroad days. For this walk, I was on what’s called the Portsmouth branch, which goes between Manchester and Newfields but not quite all the way to Portsmouth. There’s a separate Fremont branch that extends from Windham Junction to Epping, where it meets the Portsmouth branch. If you decide to explore the Fremont branch, be aware that you’ll sharing the path with ATVs between Windham and Fremont.

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Midweek on Old Toll Road, Mount Monadnock

When the Forest Society announced its challenge last year, offering a patch for anyone visiting 33 specified Forest Society properties, I jumped on board immediately. Since then, I’ve had fun discovering some new trails. Others, like those on Mount Monadnock, are already familiar. The Forest Society has a reservation on the mountain that blends seamlessly with Monadnock State Park.

On my most recent visit to Monadnock, my indifferent level of fitness ruled out a summit hike. I settled for an easy walk to the Halfway House clearing via the Old Toll Road, featuring a wonderful view to the south with Gap Mountain foremost.

Gap from Halfway House_Monadnock
The view south from Mt. Monadnock’s Halfway House clearing. Photos by Ellen Kolb.

The Old Toll Road begins at the well-marked state park parking lot on NH Route 124 on the south side of the mountain. (Post-Covid update: the state park now charges a $15 parking fee, which covers a driver and up to five passengers. Reservations can be made online. See the Monadnock State Park web page for current information.)

The Old Toll Road has a packed crushed-gravel surface, well-drained, and wide as a boulevard. It’s an uphill path for sure, but easy going until it ends at the White Arrow Trail. I walked up the Road, picked up White Arrow for a short distance, and soon I reached my destination: the Halfway House clearing, named for an inn that once stood there.

Old Toll Road, Spring
Old Toll Road on Mount Monadnock, mid-spring

I looked up to the summit and saw no hikers. That’s unusual. Normally, the summit seen from that distance looks like an anthill.

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A peek at Monadnock’s summit from the Halfway House clearing

A cool breeze kept the bugs away on the overcast day. I knew I was likely to be rained on any minute. I didn’t care. A midday midweek visit to New Hampshire’s most-climbed mountain rewarded me with solitude, and solitude on Monadnock is meant to be savored.

Blossoms in a dry season: Nashua River Rail Trail

ground cover plants with small purple petals
photos by Ellen Kolb

I’ve spent nearly three months hobbling with a knee injury. It was a triumph for me to cover three miles in an hour on the Nashua River Rail Trail this morning.

It’s bone-dry in my area, as in most of New Hampshire. Even so, buds and blossoms are turning up. A week ago, a few sprigs of grass were poking through the dry leaves at trailside. Today, bluets and violets were blossoming, and there’s much more greenery despite the drought. Rain is forecast for later this week – and a day of that should brighten up the trail in earnest.

What’s new in your area? What’s blossoming in spite of the weather?

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