One way to celebrate – part III

The last north country day of my birthday celebration was spent with Marianne Barowski, who led the effort to create the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (xNHAT). She is still its number one trail steward. I met her and a likeminded friend in Gorham, where we spotted a car before driving to Shelburne to start a walk down Hogan Road.

This is the third and final installment of the journal for this trip. Part I recounted my bike-defying walk in Franconia Notch, and in part II I sang the praises of the Presidential Rail Trail and the xNHAT.

Hogan Road

Hogan Road is one of the xNHAT segments that puts the “adventure” into “adventure trail.” It’s a woods road, easy for walkers, though its rough varied surface looks like it eats bike tires for breakfast. Busted culverts? Check. Smooth rocks, sharp rocks, indifferently-dumped gravel of random diameter? Check.

Then again, there were a few other things to notice. The Androscoggin River on the south side of the road is of surpassing beauty with Mount Madison rising in the distance. I snacked on wild black raspberries that put my granola bars to shame. I had good company, too. As a rule I prefer to travel solo. When I get the chance to walk a trail with its founder, though, “yes” is the only reasonable response.

Wide river, forested shoreline, mountain in the background, blue sky
From Hogan Road in Shelburne NH, Mount Madison is a striking backdrop to the Androscoggin River.

Stewardship, fellowship, gratitude

Our goal for the morning was to check the road’s condition with xNHAT users in mind, and add or replace directional signs as needed. Marianne carried a pack with the necessary equipment, while her friend and I were handy for consultation. That’s pretty much all she needed us for.

Companions on Hogan Road

This wasn’t a day for piling up miles. Rather, it was a day for fellowship and gratitude. Throughout my trip, I was the beneficiary of the work of trail stewards like Marianne. Her friend, who I think was new to the trail, became a steward that very day when we came to a turn where signage is hard to post and maintain. She went to work building a small cairn there – something that never occurred to me. It was a simple thing, and possibly temporary, but it was a fresh approach to a nagging little issue.

Along the way the river kept inviting us to stop and enjoy the view. It flowed past us silently at first. A few miles later, upstream, it was lively and loud, probably due to a release from the power dam in Gorham.

We discovered a Forest Society sign along the way, identifying the Shelburne Valley Forest, a recently-protected parcel of land that includes a portion of xNHAT. I think that augurs well for the future of passive recreation in the area.

Wrapping up

Returning home after my north country travels, I still had a few miles left to meet my goal. I put them on hold, briefly. My husband, not a hiker but very much an athlete, had a bike race scheduled in Maine two days later. Not a problem. I could walk in Maine.

It turned out that the town where we stayed in Maine had a fine bike/pedestrian trail for me. It ran along the Androscoggin River. Yes, the same river that sweetened the scenery along Hogan Road! I reached my goal there. I couldn’t have known when I started that the Androscoggin would stick with me until I was done. A friend of mine calls such coincidences “Godwinks,” and I’m not about to dispute her.

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Androscoggin River near sunset, Brunswick ME

Every step of the way, even when I felt absolutely beat, I was grateful for all of it. God is good. In a state full of hikers who knock off 4000-footers before lunch, I maxed out at 16 miles one day on flat trails. (You should have seen the pile of mac & cheese I had for dinner that night.) There’s room in this world for peak baggers and flatlanders alike.

That’s worth celebrating.


I’ll make an endorsement here, unsolicited and uncompensated: thumbs up to the Art Gallery Hostel in Whitefield, which served as base camp for my north country dayhikes. It’s economical, clean, and hiker-friendly. No meals are included, but there’s a kitchen. Dunks is next door, and a grocery store is down the street. Info at booking.com.

If you’d like to support Granite State Walker, you can buy me a coffee. Thanks!

One way to celebrate – part II

When last we met, I described a stop in Franconia Notch as I headed north for a birthday hike. Ultimately, half of my trip’s miles were along the Presidential Rail Trail (PRT). No two hikes there are alike, even from one day to the next.

Was I hiking, or was I walking? I know there are trail lovers out there who would scorn my use of the word “hike” to describe travel on any path that’s flat. I humbly ask their (your?) indulgence. If I’m on a paved surface, or an unpaved well-maintained town road, I’m walking. Anyplace else, I’m hiking.

Just go with it. Let’s get back to the PRT.

A cloudy day in Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge

Two days and half of my miles were on the PRT, my favorite rail trail. The first day was cloudy, the second brilliantly sunny, and each was splendid.

I began with the PRT’s path through Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge. My first stop was the viewing platform at Cherry Pond, an easy mile and a half from the Airport Road trailhead in Whitefield. The pond was covered with waterlilies. The only sounds were crickets, bees, some shy songbirds, and one distant jet way overhead.

Cherry Mountain and the Pliny Range were out the open, but the Presidentials to the east refused to come out from behind clouds. I gave them a chance, as I spent several hours between the trailheads at Airport Road and NH 115-A, but they simply weren’t going to show off for anyone not climbing them.

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Cherry Mountain and Joe-Pye weed along the Presidential Rail Trail. Ellen Kolb photo.

Wild blossoms lined my way. I was pleased to see that Joe-Pye weed, while fading a bit, was still plentiful. I like its bold height and pink blooms. I was to see much more of it in the coming days.

Coming back at dusk to chase some sunset photos, I was surprised by a snowshoe hare popping out of the dense brush along the trail. Accustomed as I am to the pesky Eastern cottontails that abound in my southern New Hampshire neighborhood, I wasn’t used to seeing a larger, darker rabbit. But there it was!

Forested mountain range at sunset
A late afternoon view from the PRT: Mount Waumbek and the Pliny Range. Ellen Kolb photo.

The Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail

The next day, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. I was doomed to get sunburned.

The xNHAT – I’ll use the abbreviation favored by the trail’s founder, about whom more in part III – includes much of the PRT, but also a quiet residential unpaved Jefferson road called Valley Way. That’s where I got my sunburn. It’s also where I had all the views of the Presidential Range that were missing the day before.

Panoramic view of the Presidential Range mountains in New Hampshire, seen from a nearby road
The Presidential Range seen from Valley Way in Jefferson NH. L-R: Mts. Madison, Adams, Jefferson, and Washington. Mt. Washington is the tallest, but seems shorter due to the angle from which I took the photo.

(I’ve written before about the xNHAT, which extends all the way across the state from Woodsville past Shelburne, ending in Bethel, Maine. My trip included only a couple of segments. Take a look at xnhat.org to learn about the whole trail.)

I started from Bowman, a trailhead off U.S. 2 in Randolph. From there I hiked west to NH Route 115, and then reversed direction as far as the Appalachia parking area. Having the car in the middle of my route gave me a place to eat lunch with my feet propped up. (My celebration, my rules.)

I started on the shady PRT, and when I got to Jefferson Notch Road I cut over to Valley Way. After all the clouds the day before, I was going to take the scenic route and enjoy the view of the Presidential range in all its summer glory.

Thumbs up to the friend of the trail who has established Paradise Meadow on Valley Way! This generous supporter has set up a little oasis on his own property for the benefit of xNHAT travelers. There’s room for a couple of tents, for the convenience of bikepackers or backpackers. More important for me as a day hiker were his other amenities, including a picnic table, a cooler full of bottled water, and a tidy discreetly-located pit toilet. I left him a thank-you note and a small donation in the little lockbox nearby.

Valley Way was superb, but I eventually switched back to the PRT for its soothing shade. While the PRT is parallel to and close by U.S. 2, the highway’s traffic is muted by the trees between trail and highway. A soft surface to walk on, shade above me, and wild black raspberries here and there made for a fine afternoon.

Shady woods trail
Shade along the PRT, and a rock cut dating back to rail days. Ellen Kolb photo.

In part III, I’ll take you to Hogan Road on the xNHAT, which might be Mr. Hyde to Valley Road’s Dr. Jekyll – though after several visits, Hogan and I have come to terms. It has beauty of its own. If you missed part I, you can find it here.

If you’re so inclined, you can Buy Me a Coffee – with my thanks!

One way to celebrate – part I

Do you have something to celebrate, but you’re not sure how? Walking works for me.

My original plan for this year was to celebrate my birthday with a flourish. I’d backpack on my favorite New Hampshire rail trails, maybe over five days or so, for a number of miles equal to my age.

Ultimately, the plan was modified in every respect except the number of miles I wanted to walk. Dayhiking instead of backpacking; eight days, not five; August, not the actual month of my birthday. I included roads and park paths as well as rail trails. I skipped around New Hampshire, and even crossed into Maine for a bit.

Mission accomplished. I’ll help myself to cake at the earliest opportunity.

Let me share some highlights. Maybe you’ll get ideas for your own celebrations. I’ll split this into three posts, so if you like this one, you can look forward to two more shortly. If you don’t like this one, you can tune in later to see if I’ve upped my game.

Franconia Notch State Park

I’ve driven on I-93 through the notch more times than I can count. Knowing that Franconia Notch State Park has a paved recreational trail 9 miles long, I thought it was about time for me to enjoy the area at walking speed.

"The Basin", a small chute of water into a pool lined with smooth granite rock
The Basin in Franconia Notch State Park, NH. Dry summer, low water – and still a pleasant place to visit. Ellen Kolb photo.

The rec trail was a treat, once I came to terms with the cyclists sharing the path. There were more than a few e-bike renters who weren’t quite at home with their vehicles on the downhills. We gave each other space and cheerful greetings. I was there midweek, and I expect the experience might have been more hectic on a weekend.

I started at the Flume visitor center at the south end of the notch, and worked my way north. I stopped at the pretty Basin for a few minutes, and gave serious thought to joining a few people wading in the shallow Pemigewasset River just upstream. Warm day, cool water…but I kept going, knowing that up at Profile Plaza I’d find a place to enjoy my lunch with views of the surrounding mountains. The walk back to where I was parked was downhill, and I made sure to listen for speedy cyclists coming up behind me.

The Franconia Notch recreational trail and the cliffs of Cannon Mountain. Ellen Kolb photo.

Towards the southern end of the rec trail, I was on the Appalachian trail for about 30 feet. Maybe 20. We briefly shared a bridge, you see. AT hikers go through Franconia Notch the hard way. It wasn’t the last time I’d cross the AT on this trip.

I packed too much sweet stuff in my lunch bag. The rec trail goes through Lafayette Campground, where I found a nice little store stocked with Goldfish crackers. Pardon my crumbs.

If you head to the Notch and want to get oriented, the Flume visitor center at the south end of the park is the place to go. I used the nice clean bathroom there, knowing that facilities in the coming days were likely to be a bit more rustic.

Coming up in part II of the trip journal: two days and half of my miles were on the Presidential Rail Trail, which extends from Whitefield to Gorham. The first day was cloudy, the second brilliantly sunny, and each was splendid. Part III will cover the serene walk along Hogan Road, a unique section of the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail.

You can help Granite State Walker get to the next trailhead, simply by clicking on Buy Me a Coffee. Thank you!

Mushroom season

A late-summer visit to Winant Park in Concord brought me the sight of tall summer wildflowers blooming cheerfully by the parking lot. Once I passed the information kiosk where the trails begin, there wasn’t a blossom in sight. Instead, mushrooms were all over the place. I don’t know what’s what when it comes to fungi, so I was reduced to simple wonder at the variety of colors and sizes. A hazy day made the usual Winant vista unremarkable, but the colorful forest floor made up for that.

October Assortment

This has been a muted fall in New Hampshire, which is not to say a bad one. There are brilliant trees here and there, but for the most part, this month has been dominated by gold and bronze. Here’s my October sampler, featuring Oak Hill, Horse Hill Preserve, Ponemah Bog, Craney Hill, and Crotched Mountain.

Oak Hill, Concord

It had been seven years since my last walk to the fire tower on Oak Hill. Finally, I got back there. I had been warned about wasps near the cab, but the first frosts must have  nipped them.

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Oak Hill fire tower, Concord NH

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View to west from Oak Hill. The plume of steam is from a plant near the Concord-Boscawen town line.

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A small notice announces a new trail on Oak Hill, created by Concord High School students.

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The day’s best maple leaves, spotted along the two-mile trail leading to the Oak Hill fire tower.

 

Horse Hill Nature Preserve, Merrimack

The best color this fall has been in the wetlands, not the hills. A walk to the center of the Horse Hill preserve rewarded me with much brighter foliage than I’d seen just a couple of days earlier on a drive toward the Monadnocks.

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I’m amazed that the beavers haven’t abandoned this lodge so close to a Horse Hill trail. I guess we hikers haven’t been disruptive.

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Leaf-peeping in one of my favorite spots in Horse Hill Preserve.

 

Ponemah Bog, Amherst

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The shrubs and water plants in the bog were showier than the trees.

Craney Hill, Henniker

The NH Fire Towers page on Facebook clued me in to the Craney Hill lookout tower, once a fire tower. Now, it’s open to the public two weekends a year, during foliage season. I made it to the tower just in time – last visitor on the last day!

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Craney Hill lookout tower, Henniker NH.

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From Craney Hill, looking toward Craney Pond, mid-October.

 

Crotched Mountain, Greenfield-Bennington

I didn’t stop with the Gregg Trail this time. Two friends joined me for a walk to the ridgetop via Shannon’s Trail. I owe thanks to the folks who managed to get a picnic table up there.

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The view from the picnic table atop Crotched Mountain: a hint of color, and distant Monadnock. And oh, that sky.

First day hike 2017: Wellington State Park

New Hampshire enjoyed benign weather on New Year’s Day, perfect for a First Day Hike. I headed to Bristol, home of Wellington State Park and the Elwell Trail. No snowshoes needed; the trail was well-packed. Gravity got the best of me a few times despite the YakTrax on my boots, but I fell gently thanks to the snow cover. About sixteen of us were led up the trail by Andrew of the Newfound Lake Region Association.

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Newfound Lake in Bristol, NH, seen from Little Sugarloaf

Our destination was Little Sugarloaf, a modest little peak about a mile and a half from the Wellington parking lot. There were plenty of hikers on the hiking trails and snowmobilers on the snowmobile trails, with cooperation and good cheer all around.

The payoff view: Newfound Lake on a clear and sunny day, with ideal sights and sounds. We watched a pair of bald eagles fly around the islands below us. The snowy peaks of Franconia Notch about 40 miles away were visible. I knew there were snowmobiles all over the lower trails, but I could barely hear them from Little Sugarloaf’s summit.

A few of my more ambitious companions decided to hike on to Sugarloaf, a few hundred feet higher and (I’m told) with much more exposed ledge than Little Sugarloaf. I might check that out some autumn day.

Find maps of the area at newfoundlake.org.

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Happy New Year from the Granite State Walker!