One way to celebrate – part I

Do you have something to celebrate, but you’re not sure how? Walking works for me.

My original plan for this year was to celebrate my birthday with a flourish. I’d backpack on my favorite New Hampshire rail trails, maybe over five days or so, for a number of miles equal to my age.

Ultimately, the plan was modified in every respect except the number of miles I wanted to walk. Dayhiking instead of backpacking; eight days, not five; August, not the actual month of my birthday. I included roads and park paths as well as rail trails. I skipped around New Hampshire, and even crossed into Maine for a bit.

Mission accomplished. I’ll help myself to cake at the earliest opportunity.

Let me share some highlights. Maybe you’ll get ideas for your own celebrations. I’ll split this into three posts, so if you like this one, you can look forward to two more shortly. If you don’t like this one, you can tune in later to see if I’ve upped my game.

Franconia Notch State Park

I’ve driven on I-93 through the notch more times than I can count. Knowing that Franconia Notch State Park has a paved recreational trail 9 miles long, I thought it was about time for me to enjoy the area at walking speed.

"The Basin", a small chute of water into a pool lined with smooth granite rock
The Basin in Franconia Notch State Park, NH. Dry summer, low water – and still a pleasant place to visit. Ellen Kolb photo.

The rec trail was a treat, once I came to terms with the cyclists sharing the path. There were more than a few e-bike renters who weren’t quite at home with their vehicles on the downhills. We gave each other space and cheerful greetings. I was there midweek, and I expect the experience might have been more hectic on a weekend.

I started at the Flume visitor center at the south end of the notch, and worked my way north. I stopped at the pretty Basin for a few minutes, and gave serious thought to joining a few people wading in the shallow Pemigewasset River just upstream. Warm day, cool water…but I kept going, knowing that up at Profile Plaza I’d find a place to enjoy my lunch with views of the surrounding mountains. The walk back to where I was parked was downhill, and I made sure to listen for speedy cyclists coming up behind me.

The Franconia Notch recreational trail and the cliffs of Cannon Mountain. Ellen Kolb photo.

Here’s a tip, if you’re participating in the scavenger hunt celebrating the 90th birthday of the New Hampshire state parks system: in Franconia Notch state park, you can find several opportunities to score points.

Towards the southern end of the rec trail, I was on the Appalachian trail for about 30 feet. Maybe 20. We briefly shared a bridge, you see. AT hikers go through Franconia Notch the hard way. It wasn’t the last time I’d cross the AT on this trip.

I packed too much sweet stuff in my lunch bag. The rec trail goes through Lafayette Campground, where I found a nice little store stocked with Goldfish crackers. Pardon my crumbs.

If you head to the Notch and want to get oriented, the Flume visitor center at the south end of the park is the place to go. I used the nice clean bathroom there, knowing that facilities in the coming days were likely to be a bit more rustic.

Coming up in part II of the trip journal: two days and half of my miles were on the Presidential Rail Trail, which extends from Whitefield to Gorham. The first day was cloudy, the second brilliantly sunny, and each was splendid. Part III will cover the serene walk along Hogan Road, a unique section of the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail.

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NH State Parks scavenger hunt: you’re invited!

The New Hampshire State Parks team has come up with a way to lure you outdoors and make your way to your favorite state park, or to a new one that might become a favorite. And why not, with summer upon us?

The 90th Anniversary Scavenger Hunt

Check out the NH State Parks 90th Anniversary Scavenger Hunt! Of course there are prizes, but the real prize as far as I’m concerned is getting to know more about the various parks. Participants are invited to do an assortment of activities at specific parks, such as taking a photo or video, or answering questions about properties in the state park system. Head to https://www.nhstateparks.org/things-to-do/goosechase-scavenger-hunt to learn about the Goosechase app you’ll need and the rules you’ll need to follow.

A round sticker advertising the 90th anniversary of New Hampshire State Parks in 2025, featuring white lettering on a green background with an image of silhouetted trees
The official #NHParks90 sticker

I’ve been blessed to be able to travel throughout the Granite State to visit most (but not yet all) of the state parks. For the scavenger hunt, I’ve decided to concentrate on the parks in the southern part of the state, close to home. I won’t be one of the top point-earners in the contest, but I’ve earned a sticker so far. I’m already a winner.

Entrance fees to the parks are modest. For some parks, reservations for parking are recommended. The State Parks website has fee information for each park. For children age 5 and younger, and adults 65 and over, admission to most parks is free.

Where to go?

July is the perfect time to visit Rhododendron State Park, a small beauty in Fitzwilliam in the southwestern part of the state. A grove of rhododendron maximum blooms there every summer. In fact, there will be guided wildflower walks in the park in a couple of weeks, July 18-20, 2025. Pack bug repellent, and wear sturdy shoes in case you decide to extend your visit by taking the trail from the park to Little Monadnock Mountain with its view of Grand Monadnock.

I’ve been writing Granite State Walker for nineteen years now, with plenty of posts about state parks. Somehow I’ve missed Clough State Park in Weare, which is within easy driving distance of New Hampshire’s largest cities. That’s one I should visit soon. Its beach seems like a good idea when the temps hit 90. I’ve seen the park many times from the walkway on nearby Everett Dam, which is also worth a visit. Kingston State Park is another beach offering respite from summer heat.

Pawtuckaway…now there’s an old favorite. I can get there via the main entrance in Nottingham, or what I call the “back door,” which is off of Reservation Road in Deerfield. A big lake, a campground, a fire tower, and miles of trails ensure that there’s something for everyone. Oh, and there’s a boulder field, too.

Large glacial erratic boulder, with a backpack at its base to show scale
My backpack was dwarfed by one of the many boulders in Pawtuckaway’s boulder field.

Don’t overlook New Hampshire’s recreational rail trails. You can search this Granite State Walker blog for many posts about these gems. Looking for something in the southern tier? For paved trails, I’m partial to the rail trails in Windham, Londonderry, and Nashua. Other trails are unpaved but maintained, like the Rockingham Recreational Trail that goes from Manchester all the way to Newfields – or Newfields all the way to Manchester, if you prefer.

If you’re really serious about hunting for a state park, and the more remote the better, I’ll let you in on one that I wish I could visit more often: Deer Mountain campground in Pittsburg, just a few miles from the Canadian border.

Look into the scavenger hunt. It’s a good reason to treat yourself to a visit to one of New Hampshire’s state parks soon.

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On finding a little less open land

I’ve tried over the years to develop a habit of gratitude while I’m hiking. Gratitude for what? There’s obvious beauty, of course – the sights that stop me in my tracks and take my breath away. Then there are subtler things I’d miss if I weren’t paying attention: spring wildflowers carpeting the ground, or an owl surveying me from a tree branch.

I got a reminder recently of another blessing that I too often take for granted when I’m walking around New Hampshire. Not a thing, but people. They’re the landowners who allow hikers to cross their property. Open land becomes more scarce with each passing year. I recently discovered that a little sliver of it on which I’ve depended is now posted.

A New England river in winter, with ice at the edges and rushing water in the middle.
Before reaching the “no trespassing” signs, I walked along the Souhegan River for awhile. Ellen Kolb photo.

Putting up a “no trespassing” sign is every landowner’s right. Finding one along a familiar path makes me sad, though.

Now, I need to change the route of my two-and-a-half mile walk into town from a quiet low-traffic route to a busy road with blind curves and no sidewalks. That’s a problem, but I’ll cope. What bothers me more is that I don’t know why the landowner chose to post the land. Was it because someone crossing the property abused the privilege?

No one owes me an explanation, of course. But I’m sorry I never thanked the landowner while the little strip of land was open.

So I have a resolution to add to my New Year’s list: thank the landowners who let me pass through. They’re a vanishing breed.


While I’m counting my blessings, I’m thanking my readers! I’ve been blogging at Granite State Walker for 18 years, and this blog earned more views in 2024 than ever before. Most visitors got here simply by doing a web search for southern New Hampshire trails, and I hope they’ve been rewarded with lots of good hikes.

The most popular search term this year was “Kearsarge,” and why not? A visit to Winslow or Rollins State Park featuring a hike up Mount Kearsarge makes for a great day.

If you enjoy Granite State Walker, you can help me get to the next trailhead by supporting the blog. Thank you!

Walking for a cause

Update, October 2024: Due to unforeseen circumstances, the formal fundraising walk for Light of Life has been put off until 2025. That’s not going to stop me from walking the 13 miles anyway on October 19, the date originally planned for the event, as described below. Long solo hikes suit me well.

I interrupt my trip reports to invite your support as I walk in late October to raise funds for Light of Life, an agency providing emergency shelter and transitional housing for women in Manchester NH. The agency’s annual fundraising walk is on the delightful Rockingham Recreational Trail between Manchester and Newfields. I’m aiming for 13 miles on what’s sure to be a fine autumn morning. If you’d like to donate, please go to this link, with my thanks: https://secure.qgiv.com/event/lighthouse50/account/1808092

Ellen Kolb, a woman walking on a leaf-covered trail.
The Granite State Walker at #Lighthouse50, 2023. Photo by an unidentified event participant.

Granite State Walker makes a move (and it’s not a hike)

trail junction sign on Oak Hill trails, Concord NH
Trail junction, Oak Hill trails, Concord NH

My Substack newsletter Braided Trails will soon include excerpts from Granite State Walker as well as original material inspired by New Hampshire trails. I hope you’ll subscribe.

Mt. Kearsarge in New Hampshire, seen from the Northern Rail Trail
Mt. Kearsarge seen from the Northern Rail Trail, Wilmot

So why the addition? Here’s an excerpt from my intro to Braided Trails:

Readers have been curious or kind enough to follow me down various paths through the years. New Hampshire hikers have kept Granite State Walker going. At Leaven for the Loaf, I’ve reported on pro-life projects and legislation at the state level. My eponymous blog has been a promotional portfolio where I’ve also explored aspects of my Catholic faith.

But omigosh, what if the hikers don’t like my politics or my State House readers don’t care about my hiking or somebody somewhere is put off by a portfolio from a Catholic scribbler? I’ve tried to keep you all a secret from each other. 

Enough already. Welcome to Braided Trails. 

“Braid” is a nod to the three distinct blogs I’ve launched since 2006. This Substack is a place where each theme can get its due, in context with the others: braided, not fused. It’s about time I found a space big enough to bring the whole blessed lot of us together. It’s big enough for new readers, too.

https://ellenkolb.substack.com/p/intro-so-whats-a-braided-trail

Intrigued? Then I welcome you on board. Subscribing is free. And if you’d prefer to stick with this blog, plain and simple, that’s fine, too. I’m delighted to write for you in either case.

Thanks – and I’ll see you on the trails.

Spring is here, summer’s coming…and so is Braided Trails.

Fall’s first half

My autumn began with a trip upstate as the leaves began turning. As October ends, I’m near the Massachusetts border, where red and orange foliage has yielded to gold and bronze. The sunlight through the leaves these days creates a glowing aura around everything.

First stop: North Country

Three days on the Ammonoosuc and Presidential trails in early fall added up to 30 miles of walking for me, punctuated with unexpected meetings. Amazing, the encounters I’ve had walking through New Hampshire.

The Ammonoosuc trail follows – you guessed it – the Ammonoosuc River. While checking out the three newest miles of the trail east of Littleton, I met a couple I know from the NH Rail Trail Coalition. We were pleased to see that the new section, between Cottage Street and Oxbow Drive, has a great surface that will be especially helpful to anyone biking the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail. The following day, I met up with yet another NHRTC colleague while on a gravelly Ammonoosuc stretch between Lisbon and Bath. That surface is in the process of being upgraded from gravel to a smoother crushed stone. Can’t happen soon enough, as far as I’m concerned. My feet took a bit of a beating that day. I gave them a rest as I ate my lunch under the picturesque Bath covered bridge.

I was in the Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge a few months ago, when Joe-Pye weed and Queen Anne’s lace were blooming all along the Presidential rail trail. When I returned in early fall, nearly all the blossoms were gone, except for a couple of hardy little asters holding out against the equinox. Milkweed pods had burst and left their seeds floating across Moorhen Marsh. Frost had nipped the north country and its mosquitoes, making the walk to Cherry Pond even more pleasant than usual. My last view of the pond had been when it was covered with water lilies. This time, the pond was a mirror for Mt. Starr King and the Pliny Range.

If I were to search this blog’s sixteen years of posts, I’d probably find a dozen photos of the views from the Cherry Pond observation deck. Even when I know I’m standing in the same place and pointing the camera in the same direction as I did on an earlier walk, I’ll get a unique image: different light, different season, different shades of earth and sky.

Cherry Pond in the Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge, on the Presidential Rail Trail, Jefferson NH.

I decided to re-visit Mud Pond trail, also in the wildlife refuge but north of Cherry Pond, with its trailhead off of NH Route 116. I was there some years ago when it was brand-new and awaiting finishing touches. Now, it’s a small gem. Bonus: it’s designed to be accessible to anyone in a wheelchair, with switchbacks and boardwalks and easy grades along its half-mile length. It ends at Mud Pond, which really deserves a better name even though it looks unremarkable. It’s pretty and peaceful, and the observation deck must be a birdwatcher’s dream.

The trail to Mud Pond in Jefferson is designed for maximum accessibility, leading to a good spot for birdwatching.

Walking for a cause

Mid-October, I walked 13 miles on the Rockingham Recreation Trail in Auburn, Candia, and Raymond with a group raising funds for the Light of Life shelter in Manchester. We couldn’t have picked a better October day. From a foggy sunrise over Lake Massabesic all the way to full midday sunshine in Raymond, I enjoyed good company.

I hadn’t passed by the old Raymond Depot in awhile, and it was fun to see it again. The littlest rail car – I call it a putt-putt, though it probably has a more dignified name – always looks a little lost on the siding, dwarfed by the more conventional rail cars nearby. They’re all part of the old rail line’s history, so they all belong there.

One piece at a time

Just a few days ago, I attended a ribbon-cutting for a trail in Salem, New Hampshire. A trail segment, to be more precise. A 300-foot segment, if you must know.

Okay, let the eye-rolls commence. But I drove the better part of an hour to be there, because getting that segment finished took years, and I wanted to thank the people who had made it happen. This is the Salem (NH) Bike-Ped Corridor at the Massachusetts state line. Its significance: it’s the south end of what will someday be the Granite State Rail Trail extending from Salem all the way to Lebanon, just this side of Vermont.

A piece of the Salem trail is already in use further north of the newly-christened segment, extending into Windham and Derry. This is the same old rail line that includes what’s now the Londonderry rail trail, which will someday connect with the South Manchester trail, which will someday connect with yet-to-be-built trails in Hooksett and Bow and Concord, finally connecting with the Northern Rail Trail that’s already complete from Boscawen to Lebanon.

This is how long trails are built, whether they’re remote or urban, flat or mountainous: one piece at a time, even if some of those pieces are only be 300 feet long. Over time, those pieces add up.

I seldom get to Salem, so I spent time after the ribbon-cutting ceremony walking south along the Bike-Ped corridor into Methuen, Massachusetts. It was easy to ignore the traffic noise from nearby heavily-developed Route 28. Instead, I concentrated on the sights, sounds, and fresh clean smells of the wetlands and pocket parks along the way.

“Past peak,” say the foliage reports. Don’t you believe it.

A trailside vine shows off its mid-autumn colors.