One way to celebrate – part III

September 12, 2025September 10, 2025 / Ellen Kolb / 2 Comments

The last north country day of my birthday celebration was spent with Marianne Barowski, who led the effort to create the Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (xNHAT). She is still its number one trail steward. I met her and a likeminded friend in Gorham, where we spotted a car before driving to Shelburne to start a walk down Hogan Road.

This is the third and final installment of the journal for this trip. Part I recounted my bike-defying walk in Franconia Notch, and in part II I sang the praises of the Presidential Rail Trail and the xNHAT.

Hogan Road

Hogan Road is one of the xNHAT segments that puts the “adventure” into “adventure trail.” It’s a woods road, easy for walkers, though its rough varied surface looks like it eats bike tires for breakfast. Busted culverts? Check. Smooth rocks, sharp rocks, indifferently-dumped gravel of random diameter? Check.

Then again, there were a few other things to notice. The Androscoggin River on the south side of the road is of surpassing beauty with Mount Madison rising in the distance. I snacked on wild black raspberries that put my granola bars to shame. I had good company, too. As a rule I prefer to travel solo. When I get the chance to walk a trail with its founder, though, “yes” is the only reasonable response.

Wide river, forested shoreline, mountain in the background, blue sky — *_{From Hogan Road in Shelburne NH, Mount Madison is a striking backdrop to the Androscoggin River.}*

Stewardship, fellowship, gratitude

Our goal for the morning was to check the road’s condition with xNHAT users in mind, and add or replace directional signs as needed. Marianne carried a pack with the necessary equipment, while her friend and I were handy for consultation. That’s pretty much all she needed us for.

This wasn’t a day for piling up miles. Rather, it was a day for fellowship and gratitude. Throughout my trip, I was the beneficiary of the work of trail stewards like Marianne. Her friend, who I think was new to the trail, became a steward that very day when we came to a turn where signage is hard to post and maintain. She went to work building a small cairn there – something that never occurred to me. It was a simple thing, and possibly temporary, but it was a fresh approach to a nagging little issue.

Along the way the river kept inviting us to stop and enjoy the view. It flowed past us silently at first. A few miles later, upstream, it was lively and loud, probably due to a release from the power dam in Gorham.

We discovered a Forest Society sign along the way, identifying the Shelburne Valley Forest, a recently-protected parcel of land that includes a portion of xNHAT. I think that augurs well for the future of passive recreation in the area.

Wrapping up

Returning home after my north country travels, I still had a few miles left to meet my goal. I put them on hold, briefly. My husband, not a hiker but very much an athlete, had a bike race scheduled in Maine two days later. Not a problem. I could walk in Maine.

It turned out that the town where we stayed in Maine had a fine bike/pedestrian trail for me. It ran along the Androscoggin River. Yes, the same river that sweetened the scenery along Hogan Road! I reached my goal there. I couldn’t have known when I started that the Androscoggin would stick with me until I was done. A friend of mine calls such coincidences “Godwinks,” and I’m not about to dispute her.

wide river, forested island, pastel-colored sky at sunset — *_{Androscoggin River near sunset, Brunswick ME}*

Every step of the way, even when I felt absolutely beat, I was grateful for all of it. God is good. In a state full of hikers who knock off 4000-footers before lunch, I maxed out at 16 miles one day on flat trails. (You should have seen the pile of mac & cheese I had for dinner that night.) There’s room in this world for peak baggers and flatlanders alike.

That’s worth celebrating.

I’ll make an endorsement here, unsolicited and uncompensated: thumbs up to the Art Gallery Hostel in Whitefield, which served as base camp for my north country dayhikes. It’s economical, clean, and hiker-friendly. No meals are included, but there’s a kitchen. Dunks is next door, and a grocery store is down the street. Info at booking.com.

If you’d like to support Granite State Walker, you can buy me a coffee. Thanks!

One way to celebrate – part II

September 10, 2025September 13, 2025 / Ellen Kolb / 2 Comments

When last we met, I described a stop in Franconia Notch as I headed north for a birthday hike. Ultimately, half of my trip’s miles were along the Presidential Rail Trail (PRT). No two hikes there are alike, even from one day to the next.

Was I hiking, or was I walking? I know there are trail lovers out there who would scorn my use of the word “hike” to describe travel on any path that’s flat. I humbly ask their (your?) indulgence. If I’m on a paved surface, or an unpaved well-maintained town road, I’m walking. Anyplace else, I’m hiking.

Just go with it. Let’s get back to the PRT.

A cloudy day in Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge

Two days and half of my miles were on the PRT, my favorite rail trail. The first day was cloudy, the second brilliantly sunny, and each was splendid.

I began with the PRT’s path through Pondicherry Wildlife Refuge. My first stop was the viewing platform at Cherry Pond, an easy mile and a half from the Airport Road trailhead in Whitefield. The pond was covered with waterlilies. The only sounds were crickets, bees, some shy songbirds, and one distant jet way overhead.

Cherry Mountain and the Pliny Range were out the open, but the Presidentials to the east refused to come out from behind clouds. I gave them a chance, as I spent several hours between the trailheads at Airport Road and NH 115-A, but they simply weren’t going to show off for anyone not climbing them.

Meadow with summer wildflowers on a cloudy day with a mountain in the background — *_{Cherry Mountain and Joe-Pye weed along the Presidential Rail Trail. Ellen Kolb photo.}*

Wild blossoms lined my way. I was pleased to see that Joe-Pye weed, while fading a bit, was still plentiful. I like its bold height and pink blooms. I was to see much more of it in the coming days.

Coming back at dusk to chase some sunset photos, I was surprised by a snowshoe hare popping out of the dense brush along the trail. Accustomed as I am to the pesky Eastern cottontails that abound in my southern New Hampshire neighborhood, I wasn’t used to seeing a larger, darker rabbit. But there it was!

Forested mountain range at sunset — *_{A late afternoon view from the PRT: Mount Waumbek and the Pliny Range. Ellen Kolb photo.}*

The Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail

The next day, there wasn’t a cloud in the sky. I was doomed to get sunburned.

The xNHAT – I’ll use the abbreviation favored by the trail’s founder, about whom more in part III – includes much of the PRT, but also a quiet residential unpaved Jefferson road called Valley Way. That’s where I got my sunburn. It’s also where I had all the views of the Presidential Range that were missing the day before.

Panoramic view of the Presidential Range mountains in New Hampshire, seen from a nearby road — _{The Presidential Range seen from Valley Way in Jefferson NH. L-R: Mts. Madison, Adams, Jefferson, and Washington. Mt. Washington is the tallest, but seems shorter due to the angle from which I took the photo.}

(I’ve written before about the xNHAT, which extends all the way across the state from Woodsville past Shelburne, ending in Bethel, Maine. My trip included only a couple of segments. Take a look at xnhat.org to learn about the whole trail.)

I started from Bowman, a trailhead off U.S. 2 in Randolph. From there I hiked west to NH Route 115, and then reversed direction as far as the Appalachia parking area. Having the car in the middle of my route gave me a place to eat lunch with my feet propped up. (My celebration, my rules.)

I started on the shady PRT, and when I got to Jefferson Notch Road I cut over to Valley Way. After all the clouds the day before, I was going to take the scenic route and enjoy the view of the Presidential range in all its summer glory.

Thumbs up to the friend of the trail who has established Paradise Meadow on Valley Way! This generous supporter has set up a little oasis on his own property for the benefit of xNHAT travelers. There’s room for a couple of tents, for the convenience of bikepackers or backpackers. More important for me as a day hiker were his other amenities, including a picnic table, a cooler full of bottled water, and a tidy discreetly-located pit toilet. I left him a thank-you note and a small donation in the little lockbox nearby.

Valley Way was superb, but I eventually switched back to the PRT for its soothing shade. While the PRT is parallel to and close by U.S. 2, the highway’s traffic is muted by the trees between trail and highway. A soft surface to walk on, shade above me, and wild black raspberries here and there made for a fine afternoon.

Shady woods trail — *_{Shade along the PRT, and a rock cut dating back to rail days. Ellen Kolb photo.}*

In part III, I’ll take you to Hogan Road on the xNHAT, which might be Mr. Hyde to Valley Road’s Dr. Jekyll – though after several visits, Hogan and I have come to terms. It has beauty of its own. If you missed part I, you can find it here.

If you’re so inclined, you can Buy Me a Coffee – with my thanks!

Living color

November 2, 2024November 2, 2024 / Ellen Kolb

This been a magnificent autumn in New Hampshire, and I’ve tried to make the most of it. Even now, with the foliage faded and fallen, I love the season. There’s no better time for a walk on a New Hampshire trail, whether it’s a ten-minute respite from the day’s work or a full day on a long trail.

Two views of Mt. Kearsarge

From Oak Hill in Concord, Mt. Kearsarge is a hazy double summit (at left). Photos by Ellen Kolb.

One afternoon in early October, I headed to Concord’s Oak Hill trails. I should’ve known what to expect: I-93 southbound was jammed with leafpeepers coming home from the North Country, where foliage at that time was at its most colorful. I figured Oak Hill, with colors just beginning to change in the Concord area, would be quiet. Nope: I had to squeeze my little car into about three-quarters of a space in the Shaker Road lot. I knew right away that the path to the fire tower would be busy, and I wanted some solitude. Fortunately, Oak Hill offers several miles of paths from which to choose. I went to an old favorite – a little ledge with a bench and a nice view toward the west featuring Mt. Kearsarge’s distinctive gentle profile.

Three weeks later, autumn in south-central New Hampshire was in its glory. The Craney Hill fire tower in Henniker, which is decommissioned and usually closed to the public, was going to be open for a day or two. I learned about the opportunity only a day in advance, and I wasn’t about to miss it. Weather was perfect. The drive to Henniker along Route 114 was the stuff of picture postcards. From the cab of the tower itself, the region’s foliage stretched out for miles – and there to the north was Mt. Kearsarge again, layered in colors, topped with the evergreens that reach almost to the summit ledge.

I think the town of Henniker has custody of the Craney Hill tower, and the once-a-year public accessibility relies on volunteers and support from visitors.

A change of plan

As I reported earlier, I had planned to join a group of supporters of the Light of Life shelter in Manchester for a 13-mile walk on the Rockingham Recreational Trail. Unfortunately, due to circumstances beyond my control, the event had to be cancelled. I decided to walk the 13 miles anyway, on a modified route. Four hours-plus on that familiar trail in foliage season? Yes, please. Besides, a generous donor to Light of Life had sponsored me.

The trail goes by Onway Lake in Raymond. The woods surrounding the lake provided a fine payoff to a long morning’s work.

autumn foliage reflected in a lake in New Hampshire — _{Onway Lake mirrored the foliage on an October morning.}

And here’s the track my GPS app made of my walk through Candia and Raymond, out and back.

I managed to spend nearly five hours on the way because I dawdled at Raymond Depot, where I found an open house being held by the local historical society, and I also stopped at the one and only Dunks along the way for some caffeinated refreshment. Every minute of the day was a gift.

Postscript to summer

Here’s the long-awaited coda to my efforts in August and September to complete the Cross New Hampshire Adventure trail: I finally got the job done, in spite of the pesky osprey that tried to discourage me. Neither birds nor ballast nor lack of money for shuttles could keep me from exploring XNHAT from end to end. The trail attracts bicyclists from near and far, but I was happy to walk, even though it meant walking each segment out-and-back. (I’d gladly do the Pondicherry section out-and-back anytime.) For the finale in Shelburne and Bethel, my wonderful husband served as my shuttle driver. He patiently rode his bike while I paced off the last few miles.

I just might dedicate a long post to the whole darn trail someday. It’s a treasure. I am sporting the finisher’s patch on my fleece jacket, not sticking it in a scrapbook with my other hiking patches. This one is going public so that people will ask me about it, which will give me a chance to tell them about the trail.

_{The Granite State Walker is a big fan of XNHAT.}

Summer walks, featuring an irritated osprey

August 26, 2024August 26, 2024 / Ellen Kolb / 1 Comment

This summer has been full of short trips close to home. No mountain hikes this season, but New Hampshire has plenty of other places to enjoy.

A brief encounter with an angry bird

The Cross New Hampshire Adventure Trail (XNHAT) is eighty-plus miles long, from Woodsville in the west to Bethel (Maine) in the east. Most of the people enjoying the trail are bicyclists, some traveling in organized groups, covering the length of the trail in two or three days. Then there’s the likes of me, hoofing it a few miles at a time during occasional North Country trips. This summer I’ve been nibbling away at the easternmost twenty-five miles or so, through Gorham and Shelburne.

From Hogan Road in Gorham NH: Mts. Madison and Adams

Earlier this month, I was walking on XNHAT’s rough and rustic Hogan Road when I came upon a wide power line cut. An osprey was on its big nest atop one of the power line supports. A remarkable sight, really, and I stopped to take a photo. That was precisely the wrong thing to do. Whether by standing still or by pointing my phone at the nest, I made the big bird think its nest was threatened. The osprey promptly swooped down and dove at my head. When I took a few steps back, it continued to circle me, making it clear that I was not going to get past the power line cut that day. Back I went, retracing my steps to my car, cutting a planned 12-mile walk down to eight. I couldn’t help but laugh a bit. This was one obstacle I’d never anticipated.

I’ve been close to bears, moose, deer, bison, and countless smaller beasties. Never before has one come after me. Respect the talons, I say.

Southern New Hampshire summer sights

Cheshire County: Rhododendron State Park in Fitzwilliam had a fairly tame annual bloom this year in July, but even the few blossoms on the giant shrubs made a pleasing sight. After a walk through the shady rhododendron grove, I continued a mile down a road just outside the park, finding my way to Rockwood Pond and the Cheshire Rail Trail. Black-eyed Susans, Monadnock in the distance, and a retired rail excursion car on display along the rail trail: a lot of variety for one afternoon’s rambling.

At Troy Depot, a Boston and Maine excursion car is on display.

View from a forest, with hills in the distance — _{On Oak Hill, Concord NH}

Concord: I usually head straight up Oak Hill’s two-mile trail to the fire tower, but this time I explored side trails and spurs all over the hill. At the fire tower, hazy skies muted the panorama somewhat, but the breeze on a tower’s top landing always feels great on a hot day. I lucked into finding a fire spotter on duty, so I got to visit the cab for a few minutes.

Milford: Passing through Milford on a muggy Sunday, I stopped to check out a pedestrian path that connects Keyes Field and Emerson Park along the Souhegan River. This one’s pretty close to my home, and yet I’d never seen it. It’s delightful. There’s a pedestrian bridge over the river, letting walkers go between the recreational areas without having to navigate the busy Milford Oval. Informational signage along the trail identifies various flora and provides historical information. Thumbs up to the town of Milford for this little municipal gem.